Pet Disaster Kits ~ Pawprints and Purrs, Inc.

Pawprints and Purrs, Inc.
All Critters
Pet Guardian Responsibilities
And Animal Well-Being

A Non-Profit 501(c)(3) Organization
All donations are tax deductible
Copyright © 1997 - 2008

Pet Disaster Kits

"I realized that if something happened to me during a disaster that prevented me from taking care of my own animals, I could not count on my local Humane Society to step in and provide them with temporary care. It was a scary thought." ~ Terri Crisp, Author of Out of Harm's Way

This information has been obtained from Ms. Crisp's extraordinary true account of her lifelong devotion to animal rescue. She will carry the reader through every emotion imaginable as she tells of her many courageous rescues of animals during both nature and man-made disasters. There are numerous inspiring stories, but the most heartbreaking and disturbing are the ones which tell of owners leaving their pets behind - treating their pets as disposable items.

Ms. Crisp explains the tragic consequences of not being prepared for a disaster throughout the entire book. She also includes the following invaluable pet disaster kits and other information in order to prepare for a disaster.

I encourage all to read this outstanding book - Out of Harm's Way - one that I could not put down until the last page was read. It's one that I've read and re-read numerous times.

These are tips to help you keep your dog or cat safe during a disaster. Included are steps that you need to take before a disaster strikes to reduce the chances of your pet getting either lost or injured. Please take the time to prepare now. Your pet's life may depend on it.

Assemble a disaster kit for each dog and cat in your household.

Disaster Kit for Cats

Supplies should be stored in a plastic container with a secure-fitting lid and labeled "Disaster Supplies - Cat."

FOOD
Use the brand your cat is used to. Have dry and canned if that is what the cat eats. (If you use canned food, buy the smallest size can available, as your cat's appetite may decrease during a disaster and you may not have a proper way to store half-used cans of food.)
Plastic lid to put on a half-used can of food. (Opened cans of food need to be stored in a refrigerator or ice chest.)
Have enough to last at least one week. (More can be stored if you have room, but be sure it is rotated at least once every three months to prevent it from going bad.)
Food dish.
Can opener. (Even if what you are storing has flip-top lids, you may not be able to obtain that type if you run out in the weeks following a disaster.)
Spoon to scoop the food out of the can.
WATER
Have enough to last at least one week. (More can be stored if you have room, but be sure it is rotated at least once every three months.)
Store water in a dark or shaded area, and not in direct sunlight, or bacteria will start to form that can cause diarrhea.
Nonspillable water dish.
Small container of bleach for purifying water.
Sealed plastic container for storing purified water.
LITTER
Have at least a one-week supply of scoopable litter stored in plastic jugs.
Include a small plastic litter box and scoop in your disaster kit.
Have a supply of plastic bags for disposing of litter that you have scooped.
CLEANING SUPPLIES
Disinfectant cleaner for cleaning crates and litter boxes. (Be sure to rinse the crate well before putting the cat back in, and do not clean a crate while an animal is in it.)
Paper towels for drying a crate or litter box after cleaning it.
Dish soap for cleaning food and water dishes.
PHOTOGRAPHS
Have recent pictures of all your animals. (Make at least copies, in case you have to distribute them to several shelters and post them where you last saw the animal.)
Keep the pictures current, especially if you have a kitten that is still growing. (Be sure you include in the picture any distinguishing marks.)
Include yourself in the picture, holding the cat. (This can assist in proving ownership of an animal.)
MEDICATION
If your cat is on prescribed medication, be sure to keep a reserve supply in your disaster kit, along with directions on how to administer.
Be sure the medication does not expire.
Have enough to last at least two weeks.
Include hairball paste if you have a long-haired cat or one that constantly spits up hairballs.
SHOT RECORDS
Keep a record of all your cat's vaccinations in your disaster kit.
COLLAR AND TAG
A breakaway collar and tag should be kept on your cat at all times, but an extra one of each should be kept in the disaster kit in case the permanent one gets lost during a disaster.
Keep several spare tags in your disaster kit that can be personalized, so if you have to move to a temporary location, you can put that phone number and address on the tag.
Include a proper-fitting cat harness and leash so that a cat that has to be confined in a crate can be taken out for exercise and can be safely controlled when cleaning the crate. (Never leave a cat unattended when it is on a leash, and do not tie it to something. Someone should always hold the leash when the cat is on it.)
If you cat is microchipped or has a tattoo, be sure to have the national registry numbers in your disaster kit.
Make up and store in your disaster kit preprinted "Lost Posters," in case your cat gets lost. (Include your phone number, an alternate phone number, and your address, and leave blank lines to write in the animal's description, where it was last seen, and any other pertinent information.)
VETERINARIAN INFORMATION
Write on a piece of paper the name, address, and telephone number of your regular vet and an alternate vet.
Write out a release form authorizing another party to get emergency medical treatment for an injured cat, in case you are not available to get approval during a disaster.
FIRST AID KIT
Have a first aid kit in your disaster supplies. (A list of its contents is included at the end of this article.)
Have enough to last at least two weeks.
BRUSH AND COMB
Include this in your disaster kit if your cat likes to be brushed. Otherwise leave them out, as a disaster is not the time to try and get your cat used to something new.
TOYS
Include a few toys in your disaster kit if your cat is used to playing with them. Otherwise leave them out.
GROOMING SUPPLIES
Dry shampoo, in case you have to give your cat a bath. Sometimes in disasters cats come in contact with substances that need to be cleaned off their fur. Dry shampoos work well because they do not require water (something that can be in short supply).
Cloth towels for drying off a cat.
Nail clippers. (Your cat will probably not have access to a scratching post for a while.)
Flea powder. (Make sure it is a brand just for cats.)
CAGE
If you have to confine your cat during a disaster, you can use a plastic crate. (Be sure it is large enough to hold a food/water dish, a small litter box, and allows ample room for the cat to stretch out.)
Be sure the cage has a secure locking device, to prevent the cat from escaping.
Another alternative is a wire collapsible cage. These are better to use in really warm weather because the cat will get better ventilation.
For evacuating a cat, you can use an Evacsack, which takes up a lot less room. The cat cannot be housed in it for extended periods of time, though.

Evacsack: An Alternative to a Cat Carrier
During the 1993 Midwest flood, the rescue teams tested a new product called an Evacsack. It is an orange, rubberized mesh sack that measures 20 inches across and 24 inches deep. At the top is a drawstring with a locking mechanism. The Evacsack was used on the rescue boats during the flood to transport kittens, cats, and small puppies. When rescuing from a boat, you are working within limited space and the Evacsack took up a lot less room than a wire transfer cage or airline carrier.

If you are involved in any type of animal rescue work, I highly recommend Evacsacks. They are durable, the animal gets good ventilation, and they are easy to clean. You may also want to consider having an Evacsack for each of the small animals living in your household. You never know when a disaster may strike, and this is a fast and effective way of getting your animal to safety, without the risk of injuring it or losing it. When not in use, it can be folded and stored in a drawer. This is a real advantage over cat carriers, which can take up a lot of room and may have to be assembled before you can use them.

The Evacsack can be ordered from Animal Care Equipment and Services. If you tell them you heard about the Evacsack through this book [Out of Harm's Way], they will donate $1.00 to United Animal Nation's Emergency Animal Rescue Service Program fund. For more information about the Evacsack or to place an order, contact:
Animal Care Equipment and Services
1-800-338-ACES.

Disaster Kit for Dogs

Supplies should be stored in a plastic container with a secure-fitting lid and labeled "Disaster Supplies - Dog."

FOOD
Use the brand your dog is used to.
Have dry and canned if that is what the dog eats. (If you use canned food, buy the smallest size can available, as your dog's appetite may decrease during a disaster and you may not have a proper way to store half-used cans of food.)
Plastic lid to put on a half-used can of food. (Opened cans of food need to be stored in a refrigerator or ice chest.)
Have enough to last at least one week. (More can be stored if you have room, but be sure it is rotated at least once every three months to prevent it from going bad.)
Food dish.
Can opener. (Even if what you are storing has flip-top lids, you may not be able to obtain that type if you run out in the weeks following a disaster.)
Spoon to scoop the food out of the can.
WATER
Have enough to last at least one week. (More can be stored if you have room, but be sure it is rotated at least once every three months.)
Store water in a dark or shaded area, and not in direct sunlight, or bacteria that can cause diarrhea will start to form.
Nonspillable water dish.
Small container of bleach for purifying water.
Sealed plastic container for storing purified water.
SANITATION
Have a pooper-scooper for picking up after your dog. (A small plastic child's shovel will work.)
Have a supply of plastic bags to dispose of the waste.
CLEANING SUPPLIES
Disinfectant cleaner for cleaning crates. (Be sure to rinse the crate well before putting the dog back in, and do not clean a crate while an animal is in it.)
Paper towels for drying a crate after cleaning it.
Dish soap for cleaning food and water dishes.
PHOTOGRAPHS
Have recent pictures of all your animals. (Make at least ten copies in case you have to distribute them to several shelters and post them where you last saw the animal.)
Keep the pictures current, especially if you have a puppy that is still growing. (Be sure you include in the picture any distinguishing marks.)
Include yourself in the picture, holding the dog or standing next to it. (This can assist in proving ownership of an animal.)
MEDICATION
If your dog is on prescribed medication, be sure to keep a reserve supply in your disaster kit, along with directions on how to administer.
Be sure the medication does not expire.
Have enough to last at least two weeks.
If your dog is on monthly heartworm medication, be sure to have a supply in your disaster kit.
A muzzle, in case your dog is injured, to prevent getting bit. Practice putting it on your dog, before you are in a disaster.
SHOT RECORDS
Keep a record of all your dog's vaccinations in your disaster kit.
In order to board a dog at a kennel or shelter, it will need a Bordetella vaccination to prevent it from getting kennel cough.
COLLAR AND TAG
A proper-fitting collar and tag should be kept on your dog at all times, but an extra one of each should be kept in the disaster kit in case the permanent one gets lost during a disaster.
Keep several spare tags in your disaster kit that can be personalized, so if you move to a temporary location, you can put that phone number and address on the tag.
Include a proper-fitting dog harness in your disaster kit. They work better when walking a dog. If the animal gets frightened, they cannot slip out of a harness as they can with a collar.
If your dog is microchipped or has a tattoo, be sure to have the national registry numbers in your disaster kit.
Make up and store in your disaster kit preprinted "Lost Posters," in case your dog gets lost. (Include your phone number, an alternate phone number, and your address, and leave blank lines to write in the animal's description, where it was last seen, and any other pertinent information.)
VETERINARIAN INFORMATION
Write on a piece of paper the name, address, and telephone number of your regular vet and an alternate vet.
Write out a release form authorizing another party to get emergency medical treatment for an injured dog, in case you are not available to give approval during a disaster.
FIRST AID KIT
Have a first aid kit in your disaster supplies. (A list of its contents is included below under the section entitled "First Aid Kit".)
BRUSH AND COMB
Include this in your disaster kit if your dog likes to be brushed. Otherwise leave them out as a disaster is not the time to try and get your dog used to something new.
TOYS Include a few chew toys in your disaster kit if your dog is used to playing with them. Otherwise leave them out.
GROOMING SUPPLIES
Dry shampoo, in case you have to give your dog a bath. Sometimes in disasters dogs come in contact with substances that need to be cleaned off their fur. Dry shampoos work well because they do not require water (something that can be in short supply).
Cloth towels for drying off your dog.
Nail clippers.
Flea powder. (Make sure it is a brand just for dogs.)
CAGE
If you have to confine your dog during a disaster, you can use a plastic crate. (Be sure it is large enough to hold a food/water dish and allows ample room for the dog to stretch out.)
Be sure the cage has a secure locking device, to prevent the dog from escaping.
Another alternative is a wire collapsible cage. These are better to use in really warm weather because the dog will get better ventilation.
Wire exercise pens work well for confining small dogs, but be careful of them digging their way out.
A spiral ground stake and 6-foot chain can be used to tie a dog outside. Be sure if you use this method of confining a dog that there is no risk of the dog hanging itself by falling off a porch, for example, or getting itself tangled around something. Be sure the dog also has protection from the weather (espe- cially the sun). Don't tie a dog outside and forget it.

Identification for Your Pets:

Keep a proper-fitting collar and tag on your pets at all times. This includes cats that never go outside. A collar and tag increases the chances of getting an animal returned should it get lost in a disaster. On the tag include your telephone number and address. If there is not room for both, you can write on the collar itself. Remember that during a disaster telephone service is often interrupted, so an address will help increase the chances of getting a lost pet returned sooner.

On cats, it is advisable to use the breakaway-style collars and the tag that can actually be attached flat against the collar and does not dangle. It is a common misconception that cats are prone to hanging themselves by their collar. It is actually more common with dogs.

You may also want to consider tattooing or microchipping your pets, as a more permanent form of identification. It is also a way to prove an animal is yours, should there be any question. Check with your veterinarian if you are interested in having this done.

Photographing Your Pet:

Take at least ten colored pictures of all the animals in your household, and keep these pictures with your disaster supplies. It is necessary to have multiple pictures in case you have to leave the picture with different shelters in the area and post them in the area where you last saw the missing pet. Pictures are extremely helpful in identifying lost animals. Remember to update the pictures from time to time, especially if you start out with a puppy or kitten. Be sure to include any distinguishing marks. These pictures can help reunite you with a lost pet. Store the pictures in resealable plastic bags in case you have to post them during a time when it is raining.

Include several of your family members in some of the pictures, in addition to the pet. This can also serve as a way of positively identifying your pet, should there be any questions about ownership.

Proof of Vaccinations:

With your important insurance papers, also keep the current health certificates of all the animals in your household requiring vaccinations. If you have to temporarily house your pets at a boarding kennel or veterinary office, they will require proof of current vaccinations, especially rabies and distemper. Your dog will also need to be vaccinated against Bordetella, which protects them ftom kennel cough.

Medication:

If your pet is on long-term medication, always keep a backup supply on hand. Be sure it gets used before it expires, though. Your veterinarian may not be open following a disaster, and other vets in the area may be affected too. If the medication needs to be refrigerated, keep an ice chest on hand to store it in, in case the electricity is off and the refrigerator is not working. Ice can usually be obtained from a Red Cross Shelter or other emergency distribution centers.

Veterinarian's Disaster Plan:

Ask your regular veterinarian if he or she has a disaster plan. Some state veterinary associations have a statewide disaster plan. Ask your veterinarian if one exists in your state and whether he or she is a participant. This is important to know in advance, should your pet be injured during a disaster and need emergency medical care. You may not have time to waste trying to locate a veterinarian during a disaster. It is a good idea to have at least two backups, in case your regular veterinarian is unable to provide emergency services during a disaster.

First Aid Kit:

Included in your disaster supplies should be a first aid kit for pets. The quantities purchased should be based on the number of animals you have in your household. Listed below are the essential items recommended by veterinarians:

conforming bandage (3" x 5")
absorbent gauze pads (4" x 4")
absorbent gauze roll (3" x 1 yard)
nonadherent absorbent dressing
zinc oxide tape (3/4" x 1 yard)
cotton-tipped applicators (1 box)
antiseptic wipes
latex disposable gloves (several pairs)
emollient cream
tweezers
scissors
instant cold pack

You should store these items in a watertight container. This container would also be a good place to store any special medication and the pet's medical records. Remember to replace any medication before it expires. In addition, you should have a pet first-aid guide to assist you in administering basic medical care. These can be purchased at most bookstores. For any serious injuries, it is important to get the animal to a veterinarian as soon as possible.

You may wish to take an animal first aid or animal CPR class. Check with local community colleges or adult education programs in your area. If you are unsuccessful in finding classes, check with your veterinarian. He or she may be able to tell you where a class exists, or maybe your vet would be able to provide you with some basic instruction. If so, you might want to ask if they would mind doing it for a group. You could also contact Animal Health Foundation at 203-535-3807. They conduct both CPR and first aid classes around the country.

Evacuating Animals

A rule of thumb when trying to decide whether to leave a dog or cat behind in a disaster is to ask yourself, "Is the situation safe enough to leave a child behind?" More than likely the answer will always be no. So in that case, never leave your pets behind, no matter who tells you it is safe to do it.

Listen to a radio station broadcasting emergency information. Pay attention to anything said pertaining to animals, and make note of locations where animals are being housed. You may need to utilize a facility at some time during the disaster.

Move your animals early! Do not wait until the last minute, especially if you have a lot of animals. Cats can sense danger early, and as they begin to feel unsafe, they will search out a hiding place. So as soon as you know you may have to evacuate, be sure to locate and confine your cats. Then you will know where they are when you get ready to leave.

If there is any doubt as to whether a disaster will affect you, don't take any chances - evacuate. It is better to have it be a false alarm than to have stayed behind and put the lives of your family and animals in danger. Besides, the more times you practice evacuating, the better prepared you will be when you really have to do it.

Red Cross shelters will not accept pets. The local health department is responsible for this rule, not the Red Cross. This is where people go to be safe, and there could be people at the shelter who are either afraid or allergic to animals. You don't want to do anything to increase their stress level. Also food is served to the public in shelters, which puts them in the same category as a restaurant, where animals are not allowed. The exception to this would be Seeing Eye, hearing, or helping dogs.

If you leave a mixture of dogs and cats behind, do not leave them confined in the same place, even if they normally get along. Animals become quite stressed during a disaster, and they will behave differently from normal.

If, for some reason, you absolutely must leave an animal behind, here are some things you should do:

Do not leave dogs and cats outside in a hurricane. The safest place to put them is in a basement. If you do not have a basement, leave them in the ground-floor bathroom. The bathroom walls are reinforced with plumbing, which helps that part of the house to better withstand the destructive winds of hurricanes. If your bathroom has a lot of windows, this will reduce the safety of this room.

In that case, you may want to put the animal in a closet in the innermost part of the house. Leave some of your clothing with the animal (preferably something you've worn recently and won't mind if it gets dirty) so they can smell your scent. This is comforting to a lot of animals. If they have a favorite bed or toy, leave that with them too.

Remember that when you return home, you will probably find a mess wherever you left your pet. Tiled floors are a lot easier to clean than carpeted areas, which is another reason to put the animal in the bathroom. If you leave a cat behind, leave them two litter boxes filled almost to the top. That way, if you can't return home right away, the cat will be taken care of.

Before you leave, fill the bathtub with no more than four inches of water. You don't want it so deep that the animal can get in the tub and drown, but you want them to have enough drinking water for at least five days. If you are leaving your pet in a room other than the bathroom, be sure and put their water in a sturdy, nontippable container. In addition to water, leave dry food to last the same amount of time. The slow-drop feeders are the best kind. Depending on the size of your pets, you may have to have several of this type of feeder. Choose a brand of food that your pet likes, but do not make it too tasty, or they will overeat in the first day or so, and then end up with nothing later. Do not leave any treat-type vitamins or mineral supplements for your pets. If they eat too many of these, it may cause salt poisoning.

In a flood, if you must leave a pet behind, give them a place to escape to that will be well above the expected flood level. Furniture can be stacked for dogs to climb up on. Clear dining room tables and countertops, as they are good flat surfaces that may remain above the waterline. If you leave a dog outside, do not leave it chained or confined in a run. Dogs can be put in garages or barns, loose, but again, provide them with a high, flat surface that they can reach that will be above the waterline.

Put dry food and fresh water out in a place the animal can reach. There should be enough of both to last at least five days. Keep it in a location where you think it will stay dry. Again, do not leave treat- type vitamins or mineral supplements for your pets.

If you leave a cat behind and it is indoors, provide the cat with a high place that it can reach to be able to remain above the floodwater. The top of a refrigerator is a good place. If you use the refrigerator - or whatever other high, flat surface you select - be sure and leave at that spot food and water for the cat, plus a litter box. Another precaution, should the house flood to the ceiling, is to open the attic access and set a ladder up under it. If the cat has to, it can climb the ladder and seek safety in the attic. In the attic, you should provide food, water, and a littler box. In addition, lay a large piece of plywood across the rafters, so the cat doesn't have to lie right in the insulation. If there is a window in the attic, leave it open to allow the cat to get some air, especially if the flood is occurring during the summer months.

If you leave a cat outside during a flood, it will likely end up in a tree or on a roof. To be safe, on the closest roof to where the cat is used to being, provide the animal with food, drinking water, and shelter. Roofs can get really hot in the summer, so leave a piece of plywood on the roof so that the cat doesn't have to stand right on the hot roof. Roofs can get hot enough to burn a cat's paws.

Buddy System

Now is the time to start a buddy system in your neighborhood, so that you can check on each other's animals in the event there is an evacuation and you are not home. Let your neighbor know where you keep the dog's leashes and the crates for either a dog or cat. Set up a location where you can meet, should you have to evacuate each other's animals. Exchange information on veterinarians, in case one of the animals is injured, and have a permission slip on file with the vet authorizing your neighbor to get necessary emergency treatment for your pet should you be unreachable.

Vacation Planning

When you go on vacation, be sure that you check with the person or kennel caring for your pet to see if they have a disaster plan. It may take you a while to get home after'a disaster has occurred, so you want to be sure that in that time your pet will be properly cared for. Make sure the pet's caretaker is authorized to get emergency medical care for an injured pet, should the veterinarian be unable to reach you to get permission.

Transporting Animals

Now is the time to purchase carriers for all the animals in your household. Each animal should have its own, and it should be the proper size, so that the animal is as comfortable as possible. Do not buy cardboard carriers. They do not hold up well, especially if it is raining, and if the animal should have to stay in it for an extended period of time, they do not provide enough room and cannot be cleaned properly. Buy crates that are made of plastic or stainless steel.

If your pet is not accustomed to being in a carrier, get them acquainted with one before a disaster occurs. The top and bottom of crates can be separated, and one half of the carrier can be used as a bed. Allow your pet to use it for a bed, and this will get them acquainted with it and get their scent on it. The carriers also are a good place to store disaster supplies for your pets.

Have a cat carrier or an Evacsack for each cat in your household. If you will have to confine the cat for a long time, get a carrier large enough to hold a plastic, shoebox-size litter box, a water/food dish, and for the cat to lie down comfortably. Make sure the carrier is not left in the sun and, especially if it is warm outside, the cat gets good ventilation. In cold weather, provide the animal with an old towel or even a sweatshirt of yours to curl up with. A personal clothing item of yours will have your scent on it, and that will help to comfort the animal. In cold weather, you can use a separate towel to drape over the cage if it gets cold.

If you take the cat out of its carrier while away from home, be sure to do so in a confined space. Should the cat escape, you want to be able to catch it again. It is not advisable to evacuate carrying a cat or allowing the cat to be loose in your vehicle. If you have to leave suddenly and don't have the proper means to confine the cat, another option is a pillowcase. It is not a secure way to transport a cat, though, and you have to be sure the cat is getting sufficient air to breathe.

If your dog rides in the car, always have a leash in the vehicle. A disaster may occur while you are away from home, and if you have to leave your car, you need a safe way to be able to control your dog.

You should have a large enough carrier for each dog in your household, allowing it room to stand up, turn around, and lie down. If the dog is kept in the carrier, be sure to take it out every few hours to get some exercise and relieve itself. Do not take the dog for a walk in a strange place unless it is on a leash.

Have a chain leash for each dog in your household. Walls and fences can come down during a disaster, and it may be necessary to keep your dog confined on a chain leash until repairs can be made. Be sure it is long enough for the dog to move around without getting tangled around something and perhaps choking itself. Do not chain a dog on a porch, where it might fall off the edge and hang itself. Make time to take the dog for a walk, being careful to keep to areas where it will not injure its paws on sharp objects. Shelter, food, and fresh water must always be within the dog's reach.

Temporary Housing for Displaced Pets

Know where the animal shelters are in your area. Call them now and find out if they have a disaster plan and whether it includes housing animals temporarily during a disaster. If they do, ask them how long they will hold them, if there will be any cost, and if they will implement a foster-home program should their facility become too crowded. If you take your pet to an animal shelter, be sure to keep in touch with them to update them on how much longer you will need your pet housed with them.

What you need to do before a disaster strikes is establish several alternative locations to house your animals in the event that you have to evacuate. It could be the home of a family member or friend. To ensure that they will not be affected by the disaster, find locations at least fifty miles away. Take into consideration how far inland from the ocean they are for a hurricane and how far away from waterways in the event of a flood. If you have a purebred dog or cat, there may be rescue groups for these animals in areas adjacent to where you live. Find them in advance of a disaster, and see if you can start a buddy system with them, agreeing to house each other's animals should one be affected by a disaster.

Locate boarding kennels in your area prior to a disaster to see if they would be able to board animals during a disaster. Keep the phone numbers of those that can with your important insurance papers. Also contact veterinarians in your area and see if they will be able to board any animals.

Call now to find out which motels in areas adjacent to where you live allow pets. Be sure to ask what their limit is on numbers of animals per room, what kind of animals, and what size. Add the names and phone numbers of those that do to the list of kennels that you have located.

If you leave an animal with a friend or family member, be sure they have a secure area to confine your pet. Most animals will try and return to their homes if given the chance. Before leaving your pet at its temporary residence, put a collar and tag on it (for a cat use a breakaway collar). On the tag, tape an alternate phone number in addition to your own permanent number. It's likely your phone will not be working during a disaster. If all you have on your animal is a rabies tag or the phone number of your vet, you should add a tag with your home information. The location where dog licenses or your vet's records are kept may be destroyed, reducing the chance of getting your pet back.

Food and Water

Have at least a week's supply of food and water on hand at all times for each of your pets. Store the food in containers that are airtight, waterproof, and insect proof. Be sure to rotate it at least once every three months. If you use canned food, buy the flip-top cans if possible to store along with the dry food. Be sure to have a can opener in your disaster supplies whether or not you are able to store flip-top cans.

Continue to feed your pet the food they are used to, and serve it as close to the normal time as possible. During the stressful time following a disaster, reduce the amount of canned food you feed normally by half. Canned food increases the chances of your animal getting diarrhea, which can lead to dehydration. Increase the dry food to make up the difference. If your pet is on a special diet, be sure and stock up on the brand you use. These type of foods are even more difficult to locate during and after a disaster.

If there is a "boil water" order in effect during a disaster, this means the water is not suitable for people to drink. This applies to animals too, so boil drinking water from the tap before you give it to them to drink. Another way to make water drinkable is to mix two drops of household bleach per quart of water, keep the mixture in a tightly sealed container for at least thirty minutes before you allow your pet to drink the purified water.

If you bring outdoor plants inside during a disaster, be sure they are not poisonous. It is a good idea to keep the plants in a separate room from all animals, just to be safe.

Animal Waste

Include in your disaster supplies at least a week's supply of cat litter. The brands that come in the plastic jugs are good for storing, especially during a disaster when things might get wet. Be sure to also have a litter box, scoop, and plastic bags in your disaster supplies.

Include in your disaster supplies, plastic bags to pick up after your dog. A small plastic child's shovel can work as a pooper-scooper, and it'll take up less room among your disaster supplies.

Disposal of Dead Animals

Following a disaster there is a good chance there will be animals that have died. If it is your own pet, there are several options you may wish to consider: burying it in your own yard, taking it to the local animal shelter, or taking it to the nearest landfill.

Following a disaster the normal disposal facilities for dead animals are not always functioning. If the electricity is off at the shelter, freezers will not work unless they are hooked up to a generator. Crematoriums will not work without electricity either. Rendering companies may not be able to reach shelters to pick up dead animals if roads are severely damaged or traffic into the area is restricted.

Euthanasia

Sometimes pets are severely injured during a disaster and the humane thing to do is to have the animal euthanized. People have come back to their homes after a disaster, and found severely injured animals that did not belong to them on their property. The first thing to do is to try to locate the owner. If you're unable to do this, then take the animal to a veterinarian or an animal shelter so they can make the decision whether to euthanize the animal. If you cannot find either, and the animal is in severe pain and appears unlikely to live, you may have to euthanize it yourself. Before doing this, if at all possible, photograph the animal, preferably on videotape, to verify the condition of the animal. Also get at least one, preferably two, witnesses that are not members of your family.

Comforting Animals

Be sure to comfort your pet during a disaster. They are frightened too. Having you near, to give them a hug or a pat on the head, will help. If your pet is not ready to be comforted, though, do not force them. Let them come to you when they are ready. If you have to leave your pet alone for a period of time, leave a piece of your clothing with them. Your scent will make them feel more relaxed. Also, be sure that when you leave, the animal is confined somewhere secure and safe. If you leave an animal, it may have a stronger urge than normal to find you, and if it is not properly confined, it will run away in search of you.

Animals display symptoms of stress during a disaster. These symptoms include loss of appetite, changes in sleeping behavior, diarrhea, aggressiveness, a need to be close to people, a desire to hide, nervousness, and a jumpy reaction to loud noises. If any of these symptoms persist for more than a week, consult your veterinarian, especially if your pet is not eating or has a case of chronic diarrhea.

Missing Pets

If you are missing a dog or cat during a disaster, be sure to check the permanent animal shelters in your area and any temporary shelters on a regular basis (at least once every three days). Take with you a picture of the animal that you are missing. If they have lost-animal forms, complete one before you leave. Also ask to check any listings of dead animals. This is a difficult thing to do, but if your pet has died, at least you know it and you will not go on indefinitely looking for that animal.

Reference Sources:
Terri Crisp, Out of Harm's Way

Additional Pet Disaster Information:
Animal Disaster Preparedness
Disaster Preparedness for your Pet
Pet Safety Center: Disaster Preparedness
Your Pet and Disaster Preparedness

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