Feline First Aid ~ Pawprints and Purrs, Inc.

Pawprints and Purrs, Inc.
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Information by Condition or Disease

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Any health care links located here are NOT to replace a veterinarian visit; please take your cat to a vet immediately at any sign of odd behavior or any symptoms of illness or injury. Call your vet and describe your cat's symptoms with any of your concerns about the cat's well-being. Your veterinarian may discover changes in your cat's health that you have overlooked. It is always better to err on the side of caution.

Feline First Aid

"Many people have learned through relating to animals what it is to care for and accept responsibility for another being." ~ Richard H. Pitcairn, DVM, Ph.D.

The following are tips to learn how to distinguish a minor affliction from a true emergency and how to address the situation. This information is NOT to replace a veterinarian visit; please take your cat to a vet immediately at any sign of odd behavior or any symptoms of illness or injury. Call your vet and describe your cat's symptoms with any of your concerns about the cat's well-being. Your veterinarian may discover changes in your cat's health that you have overlooked. It is always better to err on the side of caution.

First Aid Kit, Approaching a Frightened or Injured Cat, Breathing, Heartbeat, Shock, Temperature, and Disinfecting Wounds

Do have a veterinarian examine your cat at least once a year, semi-annually if your cat is a "senior citizen" - 10 years of age or older, and keep all vaccinations up to date. This will keep your cat disease and infection free.

You should seek immediate veterinary care if your cat:

has been hit by a vehicle (even without obvious injury)
has suffered any type of traumatic injury (i.e., cat fight, fall from heights, sudden lameness), or, even in the absence of obvious injury, has survived any type of traumatic event (such as being a passenger in a vehicle that was in an accident)
has any sign of dehydration or shock
has been throwing up food or clear liquid regularly over a 24 hour period
has food poisoning or ingested any toxic material
has lost consciousness even briefly, regardless of the cause
is bleeding uncontrollably (even after ice and/or pressure is applied)
has difficulty walking
has difficulty breathing
has difficulty urinating (strains or cries when urinating, unable to void urine or has bloody urine)
has diarrhea with blood.

Make an appointment to be seen within twenty-four (24) hours if your cat:

seems to be in minor discomfort (i.e., chews his feet, scratches more than usual, limps a bit)
has an already recognized medical condition of any kind and is showing physcial changes or is behaving unusually
is currently on any medication and is showing physical changes or is behaving unusually
has a minor traumatic injury that initially responds to your first aid
has difficulty seeing (squinting, tearing, discharge, itchiness) from one or both eyes
has difficulty defecating (strains or vocalizes when attempting to defecate, absence of stools for more than twenty-four hours, small amount of blood on formed stools) or has diarrhea.

Trust your instincts. Acting quickly may prevent a minor emergency from escalating into a major problem. The most single important thing to do to prevent an emergency is to call your vet as soon as you detect a problem with your cat.
First Aid Kit

The following items are easily found at pharmacies or wherever over-the-counter drugs are sold. Store the items in a moisture proof container that is easily accessible in an emergency, but out of reach of children and pets. Include a list of emergency telephone numbers on an index card. Laminate the card or place it in a plastic cover. Make a duplicate kit to keep in your vehicle in case of emergencies while traveling. When travelling with your cat, research the availability of emergency veterinarians to and at your destination. The better prepared you are, the less likely you will panic in emergency situations.

Two rolls of gauze: one roll 2" wide, one 3-4" wide
White surgical tape: 1" in width
Two rolls of elastic wrap: one roll 2" wide, one 3-4" wide
One roll of cotton battin 12" in width
An emergency ice pack
A bottle of one percent (1%) hydrogen peroxide
A box of exam gloves
A pillow case - for transporting the ill or injured cat
A blanket - for warmth
A towel - for a splint
A bottle of saline eye wash
Two rectal thermometers
A pair of blunt-tipped scissors
A pair of tweezers
A flashlight
A bottle of antihistamine
A box of baking soda

Practice Emergency First Aid

Practicing before an emergency can be a vital investment:

The more comfortable you are in using the contents of your first aid kit, the more smoothly you can respond should the need arise.
If your cat is cooperative, you could try making leg bandages or taking his temperature. More than likely, your cat will be impatient with your unfamiliar manipulations of bandaging; you could practice bandaging on a stuffed animal.
Practice lifting and carrying your cat.
Practice driving the route to your nearest vet emergency facility.
Establish a professional relationship with the facility and keep emergency telephone numbers handy (i.e., wallet, vehicle, refrigerator, and address book).

Approaching a Frightened or Injured Cat

Don't feel that your perception of a potential problem involving your pet is only imaginary or unimportant. One of the greatest frustrations of veterinary practice is being confronted with a problem that the cat has endured for an unnecessarily long time. Some conditions become increasingly difficult to treat even after just a few days are allowed to pass. It is never inappropriate to call and speak to your veterinarian. The vet's primary concern, like yours, is the well-being of your cat.

A conscious injured cat will be in extreme fear and possibly react with aggression. Pain or disability he may be experiencing will further amplify his anxiety. Pain and confusion may lead to his panic.

To approach an injured cat, crouch down and slowly advance avoiding direct eye contact. A cat in poor physical condition and unable to defend himself may perceive this as a threat. Instead, avert your gaze to a point slightly past the cat's shoulder. Keep your voice soft and soothing. Pets learn to become expert judges of human moods by our body language and verbal intonations. If you project an image of anxiety and panic, the vulnerable cat will become even more defensive.

Drop a large towel or blanket over the cat, especially over his head and front paws. Quickly and firmly envelop the cat in your arms with the towel rolled around and beneath his body to minimize contact of his claws with your skin. You can transfer him to a pillow case if he's not severely injured, or better yet, transport your patient in the towel/blanket make-shift "bag."

If you feel unable to safely approach the victim or if you lack the confidence to offer assistance, get help. At the nearest phone, call a friend, an animal shelter, animal control officer, or a vet for their advice and possible intervention at the scene.

Breathing

Small cats breathe faster than large ones and the rate of any cat's breathing will increase after excerise and during stress. The normal respiratory rate is approximately 20-30 breaths per minute. To count the respiratory frequency, count either the number of times the cat inhales (chest rises) or exhales (chest falls) over a 60 second period. A shortcut is to count over a 30 second interval and multiply by two (respirations/minute). An easy way to monitor breathing is to place your hand lightly on the cat's chest over the ribs midway between the forearm and abdomen to feel the breathing motions.

Normal respiration through the nostrils is almost silent unless the cat has a short muzzle and restricted nostrils such as a Persian. In open-mouthed breathing (cats who are very hot, stressed or have cardiopulmonary disease), the breathing sounds are more audible. A wheezing sound may indicate a restricted airway. A gurgling sound with each respiration is suggestive of some type of fluid in the respiratory system. It is important to report to your vet the breathing sound - harsh, heavier than usual, yellow or bloody discharge from the nostrils, etc.

The breathing movements may appear forced and erratic. The greater the difficulty encountered with each breath, the more likely the cat will pant with his mouth open. His facial expression may reflex his anxiety. The abdomen may appear to pump up and down as the chest heaves. This is called costoabdominal respiration and is not normal breathing.

Heartbeat

The normal feline heart rate (cardiac frequency) ranges between 110-140 beats per minute. The heartbeat of young kittens, however, may beat as fast as 200 beats. The rate depends on a number of factors: size of the cat, age, physical fitness, and emotional state.

The heart rate will increase when the body temperature rises due to fever or when the blood pressure falls due to shock. Some diseases, such as hyperthyroidism will also increase the resting heart rate. Internal hemorrhage may initially trigger an increase in heart rate as the body tries to stabilize itself, but if it can't compensate for an important loss of blood volume, the heart rate may drop.

To monitor the cat's heart rate, lay the cat on his right side, bend his left elbow on the forearm slightly by pressing back against his paw. The elbow will lie just in front of the heart in this position. Rest your hand lightly on his chest wall behind the left elbow to feel the heart beat. To measure cardiac frequency, count the frequency over 30 seconds, then muliply by two to obtain the heart rate per minute.

Shock

Shock is a physiological phenomenon that results in cardiovascular collapse. Unfortunately, although its function is to defend vital organ systems in an emergency, a cat can die of the consequences of shock before he succumbs to the effects of his injuries. Gum color and capillary refill, mental status (alert, sluggish, comatose), heart rate and body temperature are all important reflections of the state of shock.

To evaluate signs of shock, the cat's cardiovascular system must be assessed. This is done by physical examination that you can do at the scene of an emergency. One of the basic signs of shock is a slower capillary refill time. To evaluate the capillary refill:

Lift the side of the cat's mouth to expose the gums.
Gently but firmly press one finger into the gums for one to two seconds (pressure of your finger blocks blood circulation beneath your finger tip so that the gums appear pale) and remove your finger.
Observe how long it takes for the blanched zone to regain a normal pink color or return to the same appearance of the gums around it (anything slower than two seconds is a sign of a problem).

Warning: The cat may be in early shock and have normal gum color. Do not dismiss the severity of the cat's condition even if he doesn't seem in shock at the time - take her to the vet to be certain that no treatment is necessary. It is most important to note the cat's mental staus. If the cat seems sluggish, slow to repond or is lethargic and confused, transport to a vet immediately. If the cat is unconscious, do not waste time by examining her for more minor signs of shock.

Shock can be caused by many different injuries and diseases, but there are common findings - weak, subdued or comatose; the pulse may be rapid and weak; body temperature may be below normal but may also be normal or above normal (as in the case of shock secondary to bacterial infection). There are three important categories of medical shock emergencies:

Hypovolemic shock: anything that causes a reduction of normal blood volume (such as hemorrhage, trauma or dehydration); gums and other membranes (such as inside lining of the eyelids) will be pale and cool.
Low blood pressure: secondary to central nervous system (brain) disorders or trauma, as well as extreme allergic reactions (anaphylaxis) and drug reactions; unusually pink and warm gums.
Septicemia (shock due to infection): can result rom bacterial, viral or fungal infections but can also develop from other the types of shock above; gums may be blanched but may also appear muddy.

Animals in shock may breathe rapidly but not take deep breaths (hyperventilation). They may be panicked and agitated following an accident. In early stages, the body's defense mechanisms will try to rally to allow an injured or sick cat to escape danger. As these defenses progress, signs of shock will become more obvious and extreme, leading to collapse. If the cat is conscious, keep him calm and reassured with the tone of your voice. If unconscious or seems disoriented, take to the vet immediately. Cover the cat with a towel or blanket or any article of clothing you can spare to maintain body temperature. If injuries appear superficial or minor (i.e., a scratch) yet the cat seems dazed and unable to rise, ignore the scratches and transport to the vet immediately. If the injury bleeds profusely or if the cat is increasingly lethargic or unconscious, apply first aid to control bleeding and transport to the vet immediately.

Taking Body Temperature

The normal body temperature for a feline is generally between 100 and 103°F (37.5 - 39.5°C). The most accurate way to take a measurement of temperature is with a rectal thermometer, which can be purchased at any pharmacy. These are available in the traditional glass version or digital models. The glass thermometer is inexpensive and accurate (taking about one minute for an accurate reading), but should be used with care - if dropped it will shatter. Digital thermometers are more costly but give faster readings (within thirty seconds or less) and are fairly accurate. The major disadvantage of a digital is that the battery may have worn out just when you need to take your cat's temperature. To be on the safe side, keeping one or two of each type in your cat's emergency kit and medicine cabinet would be wise.

To measure a cat's temperature:

Shake down a glass thermometer so that it reads less than 99°F; (not necessary with a digital). Note: In an emergency, it's important to shake it down lower than 99°F because body temperature can fall to dangerously low levels.
Lubricate the thermometer tip with a drop of lubricating jelly, petroleum jelly, mild liquid soap or detergent.
Gently raise the cat's tail so that the anus is exposed. If necessary, part the hair so that you can have a clear view of the area.
Place the thermometer tip against the anus. The anal sphincter may tense momentarily.
When the tensing slows a bit, gradually insert the thermometer approximately one inch into the rectum (approximately ¼ to ½ of the length of the instrument. Depending on the type of thermometer, leave in place about thirty to sixty seconds. (With the glass thermometer, when the mercury seems to stop rising, the reading is usually complete. With a digital, a beep will sound indicating the measurement is done.)
Slowly withdraw the thermometer and wipe with a tissue or cotton ball. If not in an emergency situation, disinfect the thermometer with soapy water or alcohol before storing. In an emergency, this detail can wait until the situation with the cat is handled.

If practicing with a healthy and alert cat, do not insist if he shows any resentment. This should not a painful procedure if it is done properly and with consideration to the cat. It will provide vital information about the cat's condition.

Note: In a life-threatening emergency, taking a cat's temperature should be skipped in the interest of speeding the cat to an emergency clinic.

Disinfecting Wounds

Wounds at the body surface can be open or closed. Open wounds include cuts (lacerations), scrapes (abrasions), punctures, draining abscesses and open fractures (bone fragments that penetrate the skin to the outside). Closed wounds include bruises (hematoma), closed abscesses, closed fractures and soft tissue injuries such as sprains (joint torsion). Do not attempt to remove an embedded foreign body (debris of any size, knife, wood, metal object) because massive hemorrhage may follow. Instead, keep the cat calm and warm and proceed immediately to the nearest veterinary office.

Before disinfecting a cat's injuries, examine him closely. If bones or muscle are exposed, the injury is serious and you should proceed to the nearest veterinary facility for treatment. If the cat is becoming agitated or aggressive when you attempt to examine his wounds, don't risk injury to yourself by trying to disinfect the wound.

In many cases, an animal may be injured but the skin isn't broken. You may see only swelling and perhaps discoloration (deep pink to dark purple) at the injured area and the cat may appear to be in pain. It's generally not necessary to disinfect this type of injury. The most appropriate thing to do is to apply an ice pack to the swollen area. Whether the wound is open or closed, direct application of ice is almost always helpful and the sooner it's applied, the better. Ice is helpful to minimize swelling (edema), pain and bleeding (hemorrhage).

Ice Pack Tips:

Use an ice pack wrapped in a light cloth or cover the pack with plastic and place it on the wound. Gel-filled flexible ice packs can be purchased at any pharmacy, stored in the freezer and kept ready for use. Chemical ice packs need not be refrigerated and are activated by manipulation. If no ice pack is available, a plastic bag (i.e., freezer bag or any strong, durable food storage bag) filled with ice cubes is an easy alternative to cover or wrap around the injury. Another option is to use a bag of frozen vegetables (frozen corn or peas work best but any kind will do), which conforms nicely to almost any superficial injury.

If an open wound is bleeding, place a sterile gauze or clean cloth over the area and apply direct pressure to the surface. Use an ice pack applied with pressure directly to the wound. The combination of pressure and ice causes vessels to constrict and minimize blood loss. If you don't have an ice pack, direct pressure alone will be of great benefit.

Bleeding can originate from veins or from arteries of varying sizes. Large amounts of blood can be lost more quickly in arterial hermorrhage (especially if large vessels are damaged) than in hemorrhage from most veins.

If the bleeding seems to ooze onto the wound, the bleeding is probably from veins. Do not remove your pressure too soon or any any clot that has formed may be torn away and hemorrhage could return. Arterial bleeding seems to pump in rhythm and this type of bleeding may be more difficult to control. Apply direct pressure and do not remove the pressure for at least five minutes.

If bleeding continues, seek veterinary care immediately, or if there's any open wound rather there is obvious bleeding or not.

If the bleeding wound is small - less than 2 inches or so, apply manual pressure directly with your fingers over sterile gauze (or clean towel or garment). If the wound is greater than 2 inches, use your whole hand as pressure to stop the bleeding.

Soap and water remain the best way to clean most minor injuries such as cuts and scrapes. Use a basin of lukewarm water (tap water is acceptable in an emergency, sterile water is best if you have it available), a soft face cloth, sponge or paper toweling, with a small amount of liquid soap. As a second choice, or as a second step to disinfection, use hydrogen peroxide or betadine (proviodine 1 percent).

Don't rub the wound surface. Gently pour the cleansing solution over the wound directly from the basin or container, or soak a sponge or cloth and squeeze the solution over the area. This will flush away most debris such as bits of gravel, dirt, grass or hair that might be adhering to the wound. If any debris remains, even after generous flushing, use tweezers or a clean cotton swab to gently remove as much as you can.

Rinse well with generous amounts of lukewarm water to remove any soap or debris that remain on or in the wound. Apply topical antibiotic (available through your vet or local pharmacy) to the wound surface. Apply a light dressing until a vet can evaluate the injury.

Avoid touching the wound with your bare hands, decreasing the risk of infection to the cat and also protecting yourself. Many diseases (such as rabies), are transmitted by direct contact with saliva or blood. You must consider your own safety, particularly when the origin of the wound is unknown or if it was caused by an unfamiliar pet or wild animal.

(Speaking of rabies - keep your cat's rabies vaccine up-to-date regardless of whether a rabies epidemic is reported in your area or your cat never goes outdoors, especially if you live in the United States. Rabies is reported throughout the U.S. and a rabies vaccine may be mandatory where you live.)

It may be helpful (depending on the extent of the emergency) to clip the hair around the wound prior to disinfection so that you can more easily monitor healing. With blunt tipped scissors sterilized in hot water or rubbing alcohol, carefully trim the hair to about ¼ inch in length - using the very tips of the scissors - about 1-2 inches all around the wound. Don't try to cut the hair very short, so this will increase the risk of cutting your cat. If your cat has a smooth short coat, it's probably not necessary to attempt to trim the hair. Once you get your cat's condition stablized, take him immediately to the vet, who will have specially designed clippers for pets that will not harm the skin around a wound.

Additional First Aid Articles:

Article   1: First Aid Kit, Approaching a Frightened or Injured Cat, Breathing, Heartbeat, Shock, Temperature, and Disinfecting Wounds
Article   2: Bandages and Splints, Transporting an Injured Cat, Medicating, and CPR
Article   3: External Wounds: Abscesses, Laceration, Applying Tourniquets, Scratches and Punctures, Burns and Scalds

Also see Emergencies and First Aid for related information.

Page URL: http://www.sniksnak.com/cathealth/firstaid.html

Resource References:
1. Practical Kitten Care DeBitetto, James, DVM
2. The Cornell Book of Cats Cornell Veterinary School