Cat Health Care: General Tips II ~ Pawprints and Purrs, Inc.

Pawprints and Purrs, Inc.
Cat Health Care
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Any health care links located here are NOT to replace a veterinarian visit; please take your cat to a vet immediately at any sign of odd behavior or any symptoms of illness or injury. Call your vet and describe your cat's symptoms with any of your concerns about the cat's well-being. Your veterinarian may discover changes in your cat's health that you have overlooked. It is always better to err on the side of caution.

Cat Health Care: General Tips II

Illnesses and Symptoms:

The fact is that many common ailments, such as diarrhea, vomiting, sneezing and coughing, can be symptoms of either normal activities or serious disorders. How will you know the difference? By calling your vet.

Since cats are so good at hiding illness, even a single instance of a symptom should be taken very seriously. For example, if you catch your cat chasing or biting his tail, he might have a problem with his anal glands, and a trip to the vet is probably in order.

Sometimes one cat can sense a medical problem in another cat long before it becomes apparent to the owner. If you have two cats and suddenly one begins to pick on the other, it might be because the other one is sick. Watch for eating problems or any other changes in his routine.

In the wild, sick or injured cats search out caves or other dark, isolated places; in the home, an ailing cat might retreat into the back of a closet or under a bed. Until you can visit a vet, stay close by but don't try to invade your cat's space. Instead, give comfort in a soft, soothing voice.

Cats, just like people, are subject to asthma and allergies. Dust, smoke, and other forms of air pollution in your cat's environment can be troublesome sources of irritation.

If a neighborhood cat suddenly changes his behavior, becoming overfriendly or even vicious, there's a good chance he's showing symptoms of rabies. Keep your own cat indoors even if he's been vaccinated; if he hasn't, get him to a vet at once.

Feline leukemia (FeLV) has no cure and, in many cases, no signs or symptoms. A vaccine is available and is the best defense. If a cat is already carrying the virus, the vaccine won't help - but it won't hurt, either. A vaccination without doing the test is better than none at all.

Feline immuno-deficiency virus (FIV) is most often spread by bites from apparently healthy carriers. (Unaltered males have the highest incidence.) Cats infected with FIV exhibit weight loss and enlargement of lymph nodes and are vulnerable to other diseases.

After about 12 weeks of age, kittens begin to lose their mother's immunity and can be subject to viruses that cause respiratory disease, feline leukemia, or infectious peritonitis. See a vet early about vaccinating your kitten against these diseases.

A cat who suddenly starts drinking a lot of water or uses the litter box more frequently than usual many have a urinary disorder or disease. Other signs of urinary problems are fever, a tender mid-back area, or a stiff-legged walk.

Vaccination is the only means of protecting your cat from feline distemper, a potentially fatal viral disease that causes fever, loss of appetite, vomiting, dehydration, and diarrhea. It is highly contagious, and the virus is infective for months - if not years.

A cat scratching around his ears or anywhere on his face, might have mites or fleas, but the behavior could also be the indication of an allergic reaction to food. If the scratching continues, a visit to the vet is indicated.

Indoors:

You can put aside any worries about raising an indoors-only cat. Feline friends are well suited for a life spent exclusively indoors, where they experience a much lower risk of infection and injury.

Kittenhood:

Kitten Care "Do's":

Do keep kittens with their mother until they are at least six to eight weeks old.
Do hold your kitten indoors until it receives all needed vaccinations. Furthermore, an indoor cat is a safe cat.
Do take your kitten for its first vaccination at nine weeks, for the second one about three weeks after.

When choosing a kitten, look for these signs of good health: velvety, slightly damp nose; clear, bright eyes; soft, glossy fur (no bald patches); pale pink mouth and gums (no bad breath); clean ears; no potbelly.

Plan to pick up your new kitten or cat on a Friday if you work during the week. You can spend the whole weekend together and get to know each other's likes and dislikes. On the previous Thursday, make a final check for any unsafe items in your home.

Kittens give their muscles a workout right from the start, making their first forays by dragging their bodies along by their forelimbs. Later they learn to push with their hind legs and begin walking shortly thereafter. Do encourage activity, but be reasonable - don't push your kitten's abilities.

When feeding more than one kitten at a time, don't let the smallest or shyest one get hustled out. Listlessness and shivering are sure signs that a kitten isn't getting enough food.

Kittens should be altered (neutered or spayed) by at least six months of age before they reach sexual maturity. Altering, a safe, inexpensive, and permanent procedure, not only prevents accidental breeding but also reduces many behavioral and health problems.

Kittens and chairs in motion can be a dangerous combination. Without your knowledge, a kitten can walk under a rocker at the wrong time and sustain serious injury. Recliners also pose a threat, as do sectional sofas.

Multi-Cat/Pet Household:

When introducing your cat to another older cat, start the newcomer in his own room and let the two cats sniff one another through the door for a few days before confronting each other. Don't forget to dote on your older cat during this introductory period.

A cat with a mellow personality will usually have no trouble accepting an outgoing cat as an addition to the household. A shy, quiet cat is well-suited as a companion to a cat who demands a lot of attention.

Cut down on dishwashing time in a multi-pet household by serving dry food in disposable coffee filters. Flat-bottomed filters are available in large quantities at low cost from wholesale supply houses.

A nip from one cat usually does little damage to another cat. (Their skin is thicker than ours and normally covered with fur.) However, if you're worried that a real cat fight is imminent, a few squirts from a water spray bottle can save the day.

Cats and dogs under the same roof can learn to tolerate, respect, and even love each other. When introducing a dog to a new cat, it's best to keep the dog on a lead until the two of them become well enough acquainted to proceed on their own.

Outdoors:

Kittens and cats should never be outdoors unsupervised. Too much can happen - not only the risk of vehicles and disease, but the frightening danger of people who are looking for pets to sell for profit to kitten and puppy mills, medical laboratory research, or to abuse and torture. A safe cat, and a live cat, is an indoor cat.

Kittenhood is the best time for training a cat to tolerate a lead, but cats can learn at any age. First, let your cat wear the harness for a while indoors, then attach the lead so he can drag it behind him. Finally, walk the cat on the lead indoors until you're both ready to go outside.

White-coated cats, or cats with white ears and/or faces, need protection from a hot midday sun. To prevent solar dermatitis, (sunburn), ask your vet for special sunscreens available, just for cats.

Loss of hair in the area between the eye and the ear is not at all unusual among healthy cats, especially those who spend a lot of time outdoors and are affected by seasonal changes in the ratio of daylight to darkness.

Parasites:

If your cat has fleas, consult your vet immediately about the best way to get rid of them. Fleas are very hardy, blood-sucking parasites. A single female flea can lay more than a thousand eggs in her lifetime.

Fleas pose a very serious problem for kittens. Not only do they carry diseases such as tapeworm, but they can drain so much blood from a kitten that he becomes anemic and susceptible to other diseases as well. If you suspect fleas, see a vet right away.

You still have to worry about ear mites even if your cat never goes outdoors. These tiny arachnids love the moistness inside cats' ears and can appear out of nowhere. Most cats will scratch if they have mites, but others seem impervious, so periodic ear checks are in order.

It may take two weeks or more to get rid of stubborn ear mites, so be sure to continue the eardrop treatment prescribed by the vet even after your cat stops scratching. When not correctly treated, mites can cause health problems and even deafness.

Play and Exercise:

All cats need exercise, no matter what their age. Buy an inexpensive one-to-two foot practice fishing rod and reel, attach a toy for a "bait," and give your cat a lively workout that's fun for the both of you.

Provide your kitten or cat with her own viewing perch at a window (securely screened in warm weather). It can be as simple as a soft towel or blanket, or one of the more sophisticated adjustable perches available at pet stores.

To keep china vases and other valuables safe from cat mischief, try spraying them lightly with a solution of water and vinegar; the smell should deter even the most intrepid feline trespasser.

Catnip toys lose their allure after a while and should be replaced. Even favorite paper bags and boxes should be changed from time to time; different sizes make different sounds and will keep your cat interested.

Poisonous/Toxic:

Garages and toolsheds contain items that are hazardous to cats, including:

antifreeze
creosote
rat poison
insecticides
herbicides
sharp tools
paints and thinners

After polishing your furniture, be sure to wipe away all traces of any polish that might get on your cat's paws. Some kinds of turniture polish are toxic and can cause serious problems if they end up in a cat's eyes or mouth when he grooms himself.

Many indoor and outdoor plants are harmful to animals. Cats should not be allowed to nibble the following outdoor plants: yew, rhododendron, lupin, holly, clematis, lily-of-the-valley, bluebells, sweet peas, azaleas, oleander, delphiniums. Forbidden indoor plants include philodendron and poinsettias.

Scratching/Scratching Posts:

Cats need to exercise their claws against materials that pull off the dead "husks." Scratching also exercises and stretches the muscles. A scratching post or pad can make a big difference in a cat's physical fitness. Place the post near your cat's favorite sleeping spot, as cats often like to scratch right after a nap.

A good scratching post lets your cat take care of his cuticles while reducing wear and tear on upholstery. A variety of posts are available at pet stores, but you might consider making your own by nailing a log (with its bark) to a sturdy base.

Get out your screwdriver! Scratching posts must be fixed sturdily in place. All it takes is a first-time tip-over for a cat to avoid that scratching post forever.

To make your cat's scratching post more inviting, try rubbing catnip on the material that covers it. Toy balls hanging from the top are an added attraction. Remember to praise your cat when he claws the post instead of your furniture.

If your cat likes to scratch the rug, try substituting a "scratch pad" made from a topless box about two feet wide and eight inches deep. Cut several pieces of corrugated cardboard to fit the box, glue the first piece to the box, then glue each piece to the one underneath it.

A furniture-saving tip: Attach a length of "grass turf" indoor/outdoor carpet to a heavy board and lay it on the floor. Even kittens like its texture and will take to it quickly on their own.

Supervisary Actions:

A ball of yarn can give your cat hours of fun, but this kind of entertainment should never go unsupervised. Yarn (or any string-like toy) can be swallowed or get wrapped around a cat's neck during play.

When not in use, the washing machine, dryer, and oven should always be kept closed so your cat won't get caught inside when someone comes along and shuts the door. Remember, too, never to close the refrigerator door without checking the bottom shelf.

Hiding electrical cords behind furniture or spraying them with repellents won't stop a cat or kitten who's determined to use them as toys. Ideally, cords should be run behind baseboards, over doorways, or through protective tubing.

Cats are tempted by anything that dangles in the air, including cords and controls for window shades, blinds, or drapes. These items can easily get tangled around a cat's body, so be sure to tied them well out of reach.

Needle and thread hold a dangerous attraction for cats; even more so for kittens. Keep threaded needles and sharp objects out of reach. If your pet has swallowed string or thread, don't pull it out. Call your vet immediately.

Travel:

Kittens who are taken along on short, trouble-free car trips to town tend to make good passengers when they get older. They get used to the sounds and motions of traveling and make less connection between the car and visits to the vet.

Anytime your cat leaves the house, either to get some sun or embark on a trip, she should be wearing an identification tag on a breakaway safety collar. Be sure the ID tag has all the necessary information, including your name, address and phone number.

Letting a cat loose in a moving car is unsafe for both pet and driver. Not only can the cat wind himself around the driver's feet, but he can also become airborne if the car stops suddenly, or even escape from the car and run away if there's an accident.

Let your cat become acquainted with her carrier by leaving it out on the floor with a comfortable blanket inside. When it's time to travel, keep the same blanket in the carrier and add a favorite toy, along with any other small reminders of home.

Before leaving on a long trip together, it's a good idea to have your cat examined by your vet. Be prepared to present a health certificate to foreign authorities, especially if you travel to Canada or Mexico, and always carry a rabies vaccination certificate.

During a long summer drive with your cat, take advantage of the cooling products such as the gel pouches that stay cold when removed from the refrigerator. The pouches can be placed on top of the cat carrier or underneath to keep it cooler inside.

Plenty of air circulation is essential for your cat on a car trip in average summer heat, and air conditioning is a must in very warm temperatures. For bitter-cold weather, quilted carrier covers are available at pet stores.

Cats should be fed lightly two or three hours before leaving on a long car trip. If your cat needs a rest stop en route (usually signaled by scratching at the bottom of the carrier), provide a catbox and a little drinking water in a place with some privacy.

See Have Pet, Will Travel for additional information about travelling with your pet. See Feline Vaccinations for a vaccination schedule during the lifetime of your cat.

More tips located here.

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