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Any health care links located here are NOT to replace a veterinarian visit; please take your cat to a vet immediately at any sign of odd behavior or any symptoms of illness or injury. Call your vet and describe your cat's symptoms with any of your concerns about the cat's well-being. Your veterinarian may discover changes in your cat's health that you have overlooked. It is always better to err on the side of caution.


Pregnancy and Delivery

Disclaimer: sniksnak.com and all its subdomains, including Pawprints and Purrs, Inc. is an animal advocacy site. We do NOT advocate breeding in any form or fashion. As rescue workers for both dogs and cats, feral cat caretakers, and former shelter workers, we strongly promote pet owner responsibility, which includes spaying and neutering of all pets. The information provided on this page is strictly for educational purposes for domesticated and feral cat rescuing, fostering, adopting and caretaking.
Reproduction and the Healthy Cat

The average onset of puberty and sexual behavior in cats begins at about 5 to 9 months of age. Most, but not all cats who are sexually mature, indicate this through some changes in their behavior. For a young male, this is through territorial urine spraying, roaming, and aggressive behavior toward other males who impinge on his domain. These types of behavior begin to appear even before some of the physical characteristics related to sexual maturity develop. Tomcats often develop jowls (prominent cheeks) and a broad head. Unaltered males are more muscular and may develop a greasy patch of fur at the base of their tail in a condition called stud tail.

Female cats are called queens. They usually reach sexual maturity about the same age as males. Females can become pregnant at the time of their first breeding, a fact that has been the consternation of many cat owners caught by surprise. Unlike dogs, there are no external physical signs of estrus (heat) in female cats; no bloody vaginal discharge and no swelling of the vulva. Female cats indicate that they are ready to be bred entirely through behavior designed to attract and encourage males.

A female cat beginning her estrous (heat cycle) becomes restless and vocal. She rubs her head affectionately against her owner or any upright object, marking these with the oily secretions on the relatively hairless areas below her ears on her forehead. A sexually receptive queen will roll on the floor or tread with her hind feet if scratched at the base of her tail. When treading, she alternately lifts her left and right rear feet in quick succession while raising her hindquarters in the air and crouching on her front legs. She might yowl a long, mournful, guttural cry and wander around the house or sit at the door. Many people are unfamiliar with these normal estrous behaviors and think their cat is ill or in pain.

At first the period of sexual receptivity is very short. If there is no successful mating, the hormones that induce this behavior will wane and for several days she will no longer seek out a male or act interested in mating. Eventually, the period of receptivity will last longer and she will go out of heat for only one or two days, only to quickly return to her estrous behaviors of crying, rolling, and treading.

Unlike dogs who exhibit signs of estrus only one, two, or perhaps three times a year, cats will continue this pattern during most of the year. The pattern of estrous cycles is influenced by the length of natural sunlight exposure, the breed of the cat, and individual variation.

Not all female cats will exhibit the prominent behavior associated with sexual receptivity, very young females in particular. Owners of these cats are likely to let the cat out the door as usual one morning and receive a surprise two months later. Hence, all female cats should be kept indoors and away from their male siblings until they have been spayed.

Early Age Spaying and Neutering

Too many people are under the impression spaying/neutering can only be done after a pet reaches the age of 5-7 months. Early age altering of pets has been practiced for over 25 years in North America. Early age altering means spaying and neutering pets between the ages of 6 and 14 weeks. By tradition (due to years by-gone anesthetic techniques that weren't available at the time) waiting until a pet was older increased survival rate during surgery. However, with modern technology, there is no need to prolong spaying and neutering as a medical reason. Susan Little, DVM of the Cat Fanciers' Association Health Committee states:
Over the years, the safety of early altering has been questioned, mainly by veterinarians who may be unfamiliar with the surgical and anesthetic techniques required for pediatric patients. As well, concerns that early altering could increase the incidence of feline lower urinary tract disease, could affect skeletal development, and affect behavior have been voiced. These concerns have largely been laid to rest by many studies, and early altering is becoming more widespread and available. A study recently published by researchers at the University of Florida found no significant differences in the physical and behavioral characteristics of cats altered at 7 weeks of age compared to those altered at 7 months of age.
For additional information on early altering, check this article published by Alley Cat Allies.

Mating

Sexual intercourse itself is brief. The female will crouch and present her hindquarters to the male, who mounts her and grasps the loose skin on her neck (scruff) with his teeth. Intromission and ejaculation occur, lasting only a few seconds. When the tom withdraws his penis, which has backward barbs or spines and tears the tender tissue of the vagina, the female will emit a scream and turn on the male, hissing and spitting, and striking out with her front paws with claws extended. She will then characteristically roll and lick her vulva for several minutes. This act will be repeated several more times over a few hours. After successfully mating, the female's ovaries will release eggs which will be fertilized by the male's sperm as they are encountered in her reproductive tract. Once pregnant, the cycle of estrous behavior stops.

Pregnancy and Delivery

The normal gestation time for cats is 64 to 69 days, roughly two months. Around the time for delivery (queening), the female will seek out a secluded nest. It may be in a closet, under the shrubs, in the hayloft, or in the center of your bed. There will usually be little fuss or bother, but a few pregnant queens will stay close to the owner. Cats can delay the onset of labor or halt the delivery process if the nest is disturbed. Just prior to delivery, her body temperature will drop to under 100ºF (37.8ºC).

Kittens are usually delivered after a few strong contractions that look like waves across her abdomen, with the entire litter being born in just a few hours. Some cats deliver part of the litter and then go out of labor for up to 24 hours before delivering the remaining kittens. This could be due to a lack of privacy during delivery, or because the kittens were conceived at different matings (which means the kittens in a single litter could be fathered by different toms). Pauses in the delivery process are perfectly fine, but if your queen is in active labor and straining for more than 45 minutes without producing a kitten, you should call your veterinarian.

A placenta is usually passed immediately after each kitten is born. The female will lick each newborn to clean off the translucent membranes covering their bodies. She will chew the umbilical cord to separate the placenta and unless you intervene, she will more than likely eat it.

Most mother cats stay with the kitten except for very short periods of time to eat and eliminate. NOTE: Female cats can and do go into heat and can become pregnant as little as 48 hours after delivering a litter. Mothers will move the litter to a more secluded nest if the kittens are handled too often.

Mother cats rarely require assistance in the delivery of their kittens. Your most significant contribution to the birth will be to provide appropriate prenatal care to the mother. This should include immunizations and attention to her nutrition.

Pregnant cats should be fed a high-quality diet formulated specifically for kittens beginning in the last third of the pregnancy when the fetuses are in their rapid growth stage. Continue to feed the mother this food until the kittens are weaned. The nutritional requirements for energy and protein for pregnant and nursing cats are about double those of a healthy nonpregnant cat. A diet formulated to support nonpregnant adult cats may be inadequate in energy, protein, and minerals for the pregnant or nursing queen.

Although problems related to queening (the delivery of kittens) are rare, there are a few precautions you should take. If you know the breeding dates for the mother, calculate the approximate delivery date on your calendar. Watch for any subtle signs of nesting behavior as this date approaches. You can check her body temperature, but this intrusion may delay delivery. Once labor has started, it is a good idea to call your veterinarian's office to let the staff know that the kittens are arriving, just in case of a problem.

Under no circumstances should you intervene in the delivery unless a problem arises. Have some soft hand towels ready to help the mother remove the fetal membranes and dry off the kittens if problems do arise. If you need to tie off a kitten's umbilical cord, use thread or dental floss and a pair of scissors. The mother will clean the kitten and detach the umbilical cord from the placenta in plenty of time, unless two kittens are born in quick succession. In this case, you can wipe the kittens' noses and mouths free from fluid and membranes, watch for breathing, and let the mother continue with her thing.

Problems with Delivery: Dystocia

Beware of the few signs that could indicate a potential problem with the births. If you see any of the signs in the table below, you should immediately consult your veterinarian.


Signs of Potential Problems Related to Birth
Problem Possible Causes
Bloody vaginal discharge Before 8 weeks gestation: possible abortion or resorption of the litter.
After 8 weeks gestation: premature delivery.
Smelly vaginal discharge Infected uterus.
Dead kitten.
Prolonged gestation Dead fetus.
Earlier resportion.
Failure to conceive.
Inaccurate mating dates.
Straining to deliver more than 45 minutes Uterus weak, tired.
Kitten too large to pass through birth canal.
Abortion.
Kitten stuck in birth canal Too large to be delivered.
Kitten dead.
Uterus weak.
Mother fatigued.
Failure to pass placenta Passed but mother consumed.
Retained placenta.
Hole in kitten's abdomen Umbilical cord cut too close.
Hernia.
Congenital defect.
Deformed kitten Congenital defect.
Genetic defect.
Infection in utero.

Kittens are born covered by a set of thin, transparent membranes. Before birth, the kittens were suspended in a fluid enclosed by these membranes inside the uterus. A beltlike mass of blood vessels encircled the kitten's abdomen. This is the placenta. As a kitten passes through the birth canal, these membranes break and partially slide off. The mother licks the remnants of the membranes from around the kitten's face and body. The action of her tongue helps stimulate the kitten to breathe. There will be some initial gasps through the tiny mouth. Within seconds, the kitten will begin shallow, rapid respirations.

As the mother licks the kitten's body and encounters the umbilical cord, she chews it and frees the kitten from the placenta, the pulplike mass included with the fetal membranes. Soon after birth, check each kitten's umbilicus to make sure that the mother has not severed the cord too closely, creating a hole in the abdomen. Should this happen, don't panic. Contact your veterinarian right away. Despite the high risk of infection or chance that a loop of intestine may drop through the hole, the kitten may do very well if the defect is closed surgically as soon as possible.

Sometimes the kittens come in such quick succession that the mother won't have time to attend to both. Two possible problems can occur. First, the membranes may not be cleared away from around the mouth and nose and the air passages may stay blocked. As the mother is busy alternating licking and cleaning each kitten, one may not receive enough stimulation to make him breathe on his own. This is a life-threatening problem. The second problem related to rapid births could be a failure of the mother to detach the placenta. This, however, is not a life-threatening problem.

Attend to the first problem: the kitten's breathing. Gently wipe the kitten's face with your finger wrapped in a soft towel. In most cases, simply handling the kitten will stimulate him to breathe. Wipe the kitten dry very carefully. It's very easy to tear a newborn's skin, especially around the flank folds and inner thighs. If the kitten doesn't start breathing, cradle him in a towel in the palms of your hands. Put him on his back with the hind feet toward you and gently swing the kitten downward toward the floor. This causes the fluid in the airways to flow upward and out the nose and mouth. Be especially careful not to fling the kitten out of your hands. Hold the kitten properly and do not swing aggressively.

If you are confident that a kitten is breathing but his attachment to the placenta is still intact, tie the umbilical cord off tightly with a piece of thread or dental floss. Place one knot about an inch from the kitten's abdomen and a second one just a little bit beyond. Sever the cord between the two. Do not tie the cord if it is thick or irregular in diameter. A loop of intestine may have herniated through the abdominal wall and may still be inside the umbilical cord. If you're not sure, call your veterinarian rather than make a serious misjudgment.

Neonatal Care

Even primiparous (first-time) mothers instinctively know how to take care of the litter. Mothers don't leave their kittens except to eat and eliminate. Newborn kittens sleep continuously except to nurse. The mother stimulates them to urinate and defecate by licking, and she consumes the feces and urine.

Your role is to make sure that all the kittens are given attention and are nursing. The mother may push weak or sick kittens out of the nest. An inexperienced mother may abandon a kitten or the entire litter. Newborn kittens can't maintain their body temperature on their own. They stay warm by snuggling against the mother and each other.

Abandoned kittens lose body heat very quickly. Once the body temperature drops below 96ºF (35.6ºC), the kitten can't absorb nutrients from his mother's milk or milk replacement formulas. These kittens can die within a few hours. Contact your veterinarian if any of your kittens are weak and/or nursing poorly. He will give you instructions on supplemental feeding and care. See Article 7: Care in the Sick Room for a description of how to make an incubator for orphaned or weak kittens and Article 10: Feeding the Cat - Including Newborn Kitten Feeding to review techniques for assisted-feeding.

Newborn kittens cry for one of three main reasons: they're cold, hungry, or constipated. The cold or hungry causes are easy to recognize and correct. If the kitten stops crying after nursing or being bottle-fed, then he was hungry. If you check his temperature and find it low, the crying will stop once he is warm. But ceaseless crying in an otherwise warm and fed newborn kitten often means that he's constipated. Contact your veterinarian for advice.

Newborn kittens spend most of their time sleeping, waking only briefly every hour or so to nurse. At about 17 days of age, their ears and then their eyes will open and they will begin to explore the nest in a bobbing, uncoordinated, and very vocal fashion. By three weeks of age, the kittens' movements have gained coordination and they begin the play-behavior that is important in developing the fine motor skills necessary for hunting. Kittens begin social play as early as 5 weeks and continue at a high level until about 12-14 weeks. Play is an important component of kitten development, and proper play and exercise should be encouraged. The mother begins to wean the kittens at about five weeks, and at this time you should offer them a high-quality, very digestible kitten food. Kittens should remain with their mother and littermates until at least 8 or 9 weeks old.

Anatomy

It's really difficult to distinguish male kittens from female kittens until they are a couple of weeks old. Male kittens will have a round opening of the prepuce that is positioned directly under the anus. As a tomcat matures sexually, he will develop barbs or spines on his penis. Males usually have a large head and prominent jowls if left unaltered. Females have a slit-like opening to the vulva under the anus, and will not develop jowls.


Gender of a Cat


Additional links regarding Feline Pregnancy and Delivery:

Breeding and Queening Cats
Breeding Cats and Raising Kittens
Delivery and Parturition


How-to Articles in This Series:

Article   1: How to Choose a Vet
Article   2: Hospital Admission of Your Cat
Article   3: Preventive Care: Vaccinations, Serologic Testing, Spaying & Neutering
Article   4: Preventative Care - Dental Care, Flea Control, and Grooming
Article   5: Cooperation - Restraint Procedures and Trimming Claws
Article   6: Keeping Records
Article   7: Care in the Sick Room
Article   8: Keeping Watch - Your Cat's Vital Signs
Article   9: Nutrition for the Cat
Article 10: Feeding the Cat - Including Newborn Kitten Feeding
Article 11: Medications and Prescriptions
Article 12: Basic Nursing 101
Article 13: Managing Bandages and Splints
Article 14: Before and After Surgery and Dentistry
Article 15: Pregnancy and Delivery
Article 16: Euthanasia

Page URL: http://www.sniksnak.com/cathealth/howto15.html


Resource References:
Caring for Your Sick Cat Carol Himsel Daly, DVM and veterinary consultant
Cat Doctor, Mark Evans, B Vet Med MRVCS
Cornell Book of Cats, Cornell Feline Health Center, Cornell University

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